McKelligon Canyon: From Cattle to Culture
By Lorraine Herrera.
The pride of El Paso is its majestic Franklin Mountains. Among all of
the attributes and hidden treasures of the Franklins, perhaps the most
important geological feature lies within the mountains: McKelligon
Canyon. Theatrical presentations, picnic areas and rock climbing have
provided much enjoyment for El Pasoans. But it was not always this way.
McKelligon Canyon's recreational features were developed in different
phases, making it the place it is today.
McKelligon Canyon was named after Maurice J. McKelligon, a rancher and
real estate man. According to an article by Chris Fox El Paso
banker, ex-sheriff and local writer, “Maurice J. McKelligon was one of
those sturdy souls who faced up to the realities of life with great
vigor and good heart…he was a remarkable man in many ways, and as a real
estate and land explorer of his day, he was a man of clean and clear
vision.” (
Password Vol 21, page 53)
McKelligon came to El Paso from Nebraska in the summer of 1880, shortly
after the death of his wife, Agnes. He brought with him three sons,
Matthew, Alvin and Maurice, and a daughter, Ella.
It didn't take long for him to notice that El Paso
wasn't a place to raise children. El Paso during the early 1880s was
a small town of about 300 residents and no schools. McKelligon sent his
boys to the Christian Brothers College in Santa Fe and Ella to Loretto
Academy in Las Cruces, while he stayed at a boarding house downtown.
According to an article in the El Paso Herald, “He owned a drove of
cattle, about 400 head, and developed and improved a spring in what is
now called McKelligon Canyon, in the year 1882.” McKelligon housed his
cattle in the canyon until 1887, when a drought hit the area, and he was
forced to move them.
IIn the meantime, El Paso had become a more family friendly town.
McKelligon had a rock house built for his family in 1888 on what today
would be the intersection of Brown and Rim Road. Leon Metz wrote in the
El Paso Times that the house was elegant and tastefully furnished, with
a grand piano, Brussels carpets and lace curtains. The family traveled
in a horse and buggy in town and used horses and a wagon to carry things
to and from the ranch in the mountains.
Some five years later, McKelligon sold hundreds of acres of land to Pete
Kern, including the land on which the house stood. Part of this acreage
later would become
Kern Place . According to Fox, McKelligon left El Paso “shortly
before the turn of the century…as his fortunes in El Paso had not been
developing as he had hoped, [and he] moved to Arizona and never
returned.” The empty house suffered damage from fire and neglect and was
referred to as “the haunted house” until it was torn down. From Arizona,
McKelligon moved to Nevada and resided there until his death in 1909.
El Paso County purchased McKelligon Canyon for $30,000 in September 1931
from W. E. Cantrell. According to an Oct. 31, 1934, El Paso Herald Post
article, the state relief commission approved three El Paso projects,
one of which was the pavilion in McKelligon Canyon. The cost of the
pavilion, including labor, was $12,110.
The new facility was 50 by 100 feet, with 18-inch rock walls and cement
floors. The pavilion site was also selected to include a museum and
storm shelter structure as well as facilities for entertaining. The
pavilion has been used for dinners and dancing by various organizations.
For many years, McKelligon Canyon itself served the El Paso area as a
beautiful natural setting for family picnics and other gatherings. And,
for many young people, the canyon was a great place for lovers!
More than 40 years after the construction of the pavilion, the
amphitheater was built. Nestor Valencia, former director of planning and
development for the city, designed the amphitheater at McKelligon
canyon. It was inaugurated on July 4, 1976, to commemorate the U.S.
Bicentennial, highlight the multicultural history of the region and
employ local residents.
The amphitheater was used back in the late 1970s for the newly created
production named “Viva El Paso!” created by Hector Serrano, head of the
Drama Department at El Paso Community College. Serrano directed “Viva El Paso! ”” for 25 seasons
until 2002. Except for 2005, the musical has continued to be held in the
Canyon and once again was held there during summer of 2006. Performances
of “Viva!” began the evening of June 23 and ran through July 30, with
shows on Friday and Saturday nights.
Serrano also brought the
Shakespeare on the Rocks theater festival to McKelligon Canyon from
1981 to 1984, and revived it in 1993. For 10 years, thousands of El
Pasoans enjoyed A Midsummer Night's Dream and three other Shakespearean
plays under the stars every September. Before the plays, many
theatergoers had dinner outdoors while taking pleasure in the
spectacular views. When Serrano left the project, the El Paso
Association for the Performing Arts continued producing the festival at
McKelligon Canyon. Shakespeare on the Rocks is now at home at the Ysleta
Performing Arts Amphitheater, once more under the direction of Serrano.
A completely renovated amphitheater greeted El Pasoans the summer of 2006.
Photo by Lorraine Herrera
The pavilion, too, received a facelift. It was turned into a building with air conditioning and heating, a new electrical system and landscaping, and improvements to restrooms, parking, walkways, ramps and stairs. The pavilion opened on March 30, 2006, and is available for public use for retreats, weddings, parties and quinceañeras.
The total cost of the renovation was about $1.6 million. In a telephone interview, Pifas Silva, the communications manager for the El Paso Convention and Visitors Bureau, spoke about the distinctiveness of McKelligon Canyon . “It is a wonderful venue for entertainment … it's an outdoor amphitheater where you can enjoy our great weather and beautiful sunsets. It's in the Franklins ― you're surrounded by mountains on all sides. This is a unique venue.”
It has been 74 years since El Paso County purchased the canyon. Even though the setting has been underused over the years, McKelligon Canyon has been developed ultimately to provide El Pasoans years of enjoyment.
Once upon a time, rustled cattle were driven through the canyon and over its wall to the Rio Grande. Today we can drive into the canyon on a newly paved road to see the story of our history performed in song and dance on an outdoor stage. But through it all, the mountains stand as sentinels, the moon shines down upon natives and tourists alike, and the soft breezes and rare autumn rains remind us why we live in a city with a mountain range in the middle of town. This place should not only be enjoyed, but cherished by all El Pasoans.
